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my blog
Check it out. This is my inaugural. I’ll be posting my reactions to just about everything. Today, I’m finishing the last of the witty Patrick Melrose novels by Edward St. Aubyn. The deliriously...
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squirrel burgoo
I was dismayed to discover that the burgoo recipe I once published in Natural History had no squirrel or other varmint in it. So here is a funky all-squirrel recipe produced by Sam Fujisaka and carried...
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terroir: marketing scam with a fascist history
In the worlds of wine and food, the French word terroir is on everyone’s lips. But what do they mean by it? Or, to put it more accurately, what can they possibly mean by it? Literally, terroir means...
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NY Times piece on N. Orleans pastry ignores history
In an exhaustive and exhausting report on Mardi Gras season baking in the Crescent City, the Times food section this week salivated about various contemporary, over-the-top versions of local...
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my new book now available
My new book, Steal the Menu, A Memoir of 40 Years in Food, is now available for pre-order on Amazon.
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